Belay Device

The use of a belay device has made climbing much safer. There are many devices, each with strengths and features that are advantageous for different types of climbing environments. Several devices have the capability to serve as both belay and rappel devices. Belay devices operate by allowing rope to be freely give to the climber when needed, or by allowing the belayer to immediately apply friction, or lock, the rope when necessary.

A belay system requires a belay device, harness, anchor, rope and belayer-climber team. Some indoor rock climbing walls have auto belay systems installed. These allow the climber to climb unassisted with a top rope. The auto belay system takes up rope or wire as the climber ascends the wall. Auto belay systems will give out slack with low force, but if sudden force is applied as in a fall, it will lock. Most indoor rock climbing walls have fixed top rope anchor bolts for belay with a partner. The rope runs through either a ring, over a fixed bar, or through two opposed locking carabiners. The belayer stands at the bottom of the climb. It can be helpful to stand slightly to the right or left of the line from the top rope. This helps the belayer view the holds the climber is going for and helps him anticipate give and take of the climbing rope. As the climber moves the belayer must pay out rope through the belay device and be ready to catch a fall at any time. When/if the climber reaches the finish the belayer engages the belay device so it causes friction with the rope.

Belay Devices

Mammut Smart Belay Device The Mammut Smart Belay Device engages at a very low force. This unique belay device works well on rope sizes from 8.9 to a 10.5mm. This is a simple and effective device for belaying. It has the safety of an auto-lock and is intuitive to use, and the pictures on the side of the device help eliminate errors. Furthermore, feeding rope through the SMART is remarkably easy. Petzl Pirana Descender The Petzl Pirana Descender provides excellent rope control and a smooth lower when you're rapping long lines with heavy loads. Rappelling a 150ft single line with a heavy pack is no longer a guaranteed white-knuckle horror show; you won't even notice the weight when you use the Petzl Pirana Descender. Its two breaking spurs allow you to increase or decrease friction on the go and are used to secure the device. Black Diamond Super 8 Belay/Rappel Device Made of 7075-T6 aluminum alloy, the Super 8's flawless design makes for an incredibly strong, lightweight belay/rappel device. A super smooth ride, the Super 8 is great for handling any rope diameter. Rappel with ease & belay in a pinch. Rope glides easily through on rappels but consider other devices for belaying. Comes in assorted colors. Black Diamond Big Air Package This package is an easy way to get a new belay set-up. Whether you're new to the sport, or replacing old gear, the Big Air package is a great way to get the gear you need. You get a Black Diamond ATC belay device, which is one of the most popular and easy-to-use devices on the market. The package also includes an Airlock2 Screwgate locking `biner. Petzl Grigri Belay Device. This belay device uses a cam to apply friction when tension comes on the rope. The works best on 10 to 11 mm diameter ropes. It is excellent for sport climbing and indoor climbing walls. When the rope is pulled slowly through a Grigri the rope runs freely. When sudden tension is put on the rope the braking cam initiates and stops the rope. Petzl Reverso Belay Device. For belaying on single or double ropes 8 to 11mm in diameter, the Petzl Reverso Belay Device is a great tool. When attached to an anchor and belaying from above it is auto locking. It handles well with double ropes as small as 8mm and down to 9.5mm for single ropes. Recommended for belaying on single & double ropes between 8-11mm dia. Metolius Belay Glove. The Metolius Belay Glove gives an advantage to the belayer for controlling the rope in the event of a fall. It's got a snug fit and exceptional dexterity. It's made of cowhide on the outer layer so it molds comfortably to your hand. The split-cowhide on the palm and triple stitching reinforce the strength and ensure it lasts. It has a webbing clip-in loop and hook and looped wrist closure. Wild Country VC Pro Belay Device. Wild Country VC Pro Belay Device has aggressive grooves forming a V-shape locking down tight when needed. Versatile--flip it over and use the smooth side for abseiling down. It is not auto locking. It is recommended as a belay device for sport, trad and alpine climbing. Mammut Belay Sling. The Mammut Belay Sling gives you a safe attachment to the anchor. Each of the Belay Sling's loops are full strength. It's inexpensive and an essential addition to the belay gear. The material is nylon and dimensions are 65cm by 19 mm. This is used as a belay anchor point for attaching in belay devices. Comes with a one year warranty. Metolius BRD Belay Device. The broad pear shape and large straight gate opening make it easy to use and the wide-radius surface reduces rope wear and dissipates heat. The biner is just 2.9oz / 82g and comes with a 1 year warranty. With this package you get a BRD Belay Device and Metolius locking belay biner. Metolius BRD with Locking 'biner. The BRD Belay Device and the Element Locking 'biner makes up this belay device package. The BRD is made of hardened anodized aluminum giving it the durability to withstand many summers. This belay device has a horn giving additional control descent of your partner. Black Diamond ATC-XP. The Black Diamond ATC-XP is a variable-friction belay device with excellent holding power. A belayer can control how much friction while belaying which gives greater control with multiple rope diameters. The Black Diamond ATC-XP belay device won the Climbing Magazine Editor's Choice Award. This is an excellent belay device choice when needing variable tension. Black Diamond ATC. The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device is both durable and lightweight. At only 50 grams it is one of the lightest on the market. It is commonly used by climbers worldwide. It's simplicity of design, ease of use and streamlined shape have made the ATC an excellent all-around belay device for climbers. It is made of 7075-T6 aluminum alloy. Black Diamond ATC Guide. The Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device has a unique release point that lets you lower a following climber when it's in self-locking mode. The V-notch works on ropes from 7.7 to 11mm. The Guide is narrower so it grabs skinnier ropes better.