Ice Tool and Ice Axe
An ice tool evolved from the ice axe, however it is more specialized for use in ice climbing. It is sometimes referred to as a technical axe to distinguish it from a mountaineering ice axe. For ice climbing, The climber ascends an ice fall wearing crampons attached to ice climbing boots, with two ice tools, one in each hand. The ice climber keeps his weight balanced over the point where the crampons touch the ice. Each tool is then positioned, one over the other as he ascends the ice. The ice tool penetrates the ice and provides a grip for balance. The weight of an ice tool is important. The heavier tool will penetrate ice an packed snow easier. However, heavier is not necessarily better. The weight of an ice tool must be balanced by the ability of the climber to carry and swing it for hours at a time. Large climbers may choose a larger heavier tool, while a smaller climber may pick an ice tool that is somewhat smaller.
Ice Axe compared to an Ice Tool
An ice axe is used during alpine and mountaineering, or while traveling across ice, glacier or snowfields. An ice axe is often referred to as a mountaineering axe to separate and distinguish it from an ice tool. An ice axe is used to assist with the assent, to grab rock edges, cracks, and ledges. It is an invaluable device for stopping a slide or fall.
Ice Tool Size and Shape
The different types of ice climbing require a different tool design. For waterfall ice climbing the most popular length is 50 centimeters. Larger climbers may be able to use a slightly larger ice tool, around 55 centimeters. Smaller climbers may use a 45 centimeter tool. Waterfall and mixed ice climbing tool should have a modular design. The modular design allows you to change the pick, hammer, and adzes when they wear out. Some tools give you the option to use either a hammer or adze attachment. For alpine climbing, the tool has a straight shaft with a leash attached to the head. The purpose of a straight shaft is to allow the tool to be pounded down into snow as a secondary anchor. Never use an ice tool as the only anchor source.
Sections of an Ice Tool
- Pick. The pick section of the ice tool is usually flat and bent slightly in a downward direction and has serrated teeth on the bottom edge.
- Adze. The adze is for chopping steps in hard snow and ice. It is flat and wide in shape. An adze can be a separate tool, but for ice climbing it is usually the other end of the pick. It is useful to plant deep into snow for grip, where if the pick side were used it would slice too deep or not provide the same traction.
- Grip. The grip of an ice tool may have texture and have a molded shape. Most shafts are made of metal, therefore the grip also provides some insulation against the shaft.
- Shaft. The shaft of an ice tool varies depending on the use or type of climbing. Straight shafts are for alpine climbing since they are also used as temporary anchors. Bent shafts make the tool easier to swing and hold. Bent shafts work well on steep technical ice. The bent handle is more comfortable but some ice climbers may find the shape more difficult for dry tooling.
- Spike. The spike is on the handle end of the ice tool. The purpose of the spike is to give the climber a tool used for stability. To use the spike the climber grips the head of the too, and extends to shaft out to some ice formation. The spike on the handle end of the shaft contacts the ice surface and sticks. In some situations it can be very helpful for stability. Be cautious of the spike, it can cut or shred flesh and clothing in a fall.
- Leash. The leash locks onto your wrist so the ice tool cannot fall. It should be made of strong material. It is helpful to have an adjustable leash to accommodate varying glove sizes, and be long enough that you can grip the head of the axe in order to use the spike.
Ice Climbing Tools
Petzl Quark Ice Axe This is a technical ice tool made specifically for difficult ice or mixed routes. It has low mass at the handle end making it swing easily. It has a straight arm and curved shaft so it can clear bulges. There is a shaped hammer for jamming in cracks. The The beveled teeth are distributed to maximize stability while hooking.
Petzl Aztarex Ice Tool This ice tool climbs ice well and has a usable shaft for mountaineering. It is light enough to carry easily in your pack while hiking in. It is only 500 grams. It has a removable GripSwitch that allows leashless use. The weight is concentrated on the head to allow better penetration and the curved shaft makes hooking easy.
Petzl Nomic Leashless Ice Climbing Tool The Nomic ice tool has a staggered leashless grip to reduce pick shift if used on rock. It swing effortlessly into ice. The adjustable bottom grip rest fits your hand nicely and gives a secure grip. It weighs only 1 pound, 4oz and comes with two ounce head weights to increase penetration.
Black Diamond Viper Ice Tool The Viper Ice Tool gives high performance for ice, mixed, and alpine climbing. It has a versatile design that works with or without leashes. There is a detachable Fang for leashless security and it includes a Strike pommel that screws into one of two shaft positions. The hydroform shaft increases clearance.
Black Diamond Reactor Ice Tool This ice tool has no leash. It has a curved upper shaft so you will clear the ice bulges and cauliflowers easily. The Laser pick provides awesome penetration in hard blue ice. The TPU-coated, staggered bottom grip allows easy matching on both ice and mixed routes with minimal pick shift.
Grivel Matrix Light Ice Tool The Matrix ice tool is just 18 ounces. It has a hot-forged pick that can easily handle technical alpine climbs. The curved upper shaft provides clearance for bulges and mixed terrain. The head is strong and the micro hammer is capable of driving protection in whenever needed.
Black Diamond Fusion Ice Tool This is made from a single piece of lightweight, hydroformed aluminum. It allows you to easily transition from steep mixed routes to alpine-style ascents. The hydroformed shaft and leashless design give you stiffness and lower weight. There is an adjustable grip with 3 interchangeable spacers for perfecting the fit.
Grivel Alp Monster This ice tool uses a combination CrMo steel shaft and permanently attached hot-forged pick. It is incredibly strong and weighs only 19.4 ounces. It is available in both 38cm and 44cm lengths. It can be used with a leash or leashless as you prefer.
Black Diamond Fusion Ice Tool This ice tool is leashless and uses a unique geometry and grip for stability and control. It provides a constant hand-to-pick angle. There is no pick-shift when switching from the lower to the upper grip. The grip has an adjustable pommel for the length to match hand size.
CAMP USA Alpax Special Ice Tool This ice tool has a reverse-curved pick and slightly bent shaft. It easily lears ice bulges. The bottom pommel allows you run leashless on steep ice. It stows in its own handle to let you plunge the tool in the snow.