Rappelling-Abseiling
Rappelling/Abseiling is accomplished by descending a vertical surface using a rope and device to provide friction to control the descent. Prior to rappelling, a climber must carefully and methodically inspect, take time, set up the rappelling knots, harness, rappelling rope and equipment. Establish protection as a back up before beginning the abseil, like setting up a belay or placing a prusik knot above the descender on the rappelling rope. For this reason it is very important to get qualified individualized instruction, before rappelling.
The Rope Descender creates friction on a rappelling rope to slow a climber down as he descends from an anchor. The rope descender is operated by the climber during the abseil. Descending devices, abseiling and rappelling equipment all work approximately the same. By controlling the tension on the rope as it flows through the equipment, friction is incrementally increased or decreased, thus changing the speed of the abseil.
Rappelling Gear consists of a rappelling and climbing ropes, locking carabiner, climbing harness, rope descender:
- Rappelling Rope. Ropes with about 2% stretch perform best for rappelling. These ropes are multi-strand, low-stretching rope. This type of rope reduces the bouncing and adds control to the rappel. See Climbing Ropes.
- Harness. A harness is used around the waist to secure the descender. There are many types and styles of harnesses to suite individual needs.
- Locking Carabiner. There are many types, styles. A popular rappelling carabineer is the asymmetrical D which provides plenty of room for even a thick 12mm rappelling rope. See Carabiners.
- Rope Descender. This key piece of rappelling gear connects directly to the locking carabiner then to the harness.
Safety Backups. There are several critical points that "abseilers" commonly back up. Each situation is different and needs to be evaluated with safety precautions taken based on the conditions. The following should not be considered a checklist.
- The Rappelling Anchor. A separate independent anchor is established through the rappelling rope to another tie down point.
- Tie in for rappelling harness and descender. An easy back up for rappelling can be done with a simple knot called the Prusik Knot. It limits the speed of descent. While rappelling, when the rope slips through the Prusik too fast it tightens and grips. By placing the Prusik above the rope descender, it will "catch" if the descent is out of control for any reason.
- Back up Rappel. A top belay is the best safety backup for a rappel. It places a second person in the chain.
- Length of Rappelling Rope. Ensure your rappelling rope extends all the way to the ground. A good safety back up is to tie a knot near the end of the rappelling rope.
Personal Protective Rappelling Equipment.
- Rappelling Gloves. - protect your hands from the rock wall and rope during descent. The rappelling descender device can get very hot from friction. Gloves that allow dexterity, and protect from abrasion are worth the investment. See Rappelling Gloves
- A Climbing Helmet. is an important item of rappelling equipment for personal protection. See Climbing Helmets
- Boots. Depending on the type of rock and situation a set of boots may be good for protection. Not every situation will allow it. Hiking boots can also be used very effectively for abseiling.
Safety devices and backups are not always possible. Sometimes the nature of the situation precludes using one or more backups. Whenever possible back up the abseil with independent protection.
Rappelling & Abseiling Equipment
Black Diamond Super 8. Built from 7075-T6 aluminum alloy. This rappelling equipment is strong and lightweight. Provides a smooth ride on any rope size/diameter. It is simple and easy to use, a classic descender.
Metolius BRD. The Metolius BRD device is easy to operate, is light weight and performs great as prime rappelling equipment. The side horn gives control for abseiling. It has fins to dissipate heat from the rope.
Petzl Pirana Descender. The Petzl Pirana Descender is excellent for controlling the rope and smoothly lowering. It excels with abseilling long heavy loads. The two spurs give breaking and allow you to vary friction dynamically.
Petzl Stop Descender. The Petzl Stop Descender is self-locking specifically for use on single ropes. It is designed for long abseiling runs found on face climbs and caving descents. It works like a standard abseilling device. Squeeze the handle and it releases the cam, let go and the cam pinches the rope.
Black Diamond ATC-XP. This device provides excellent dual use belay and rappelling. It gives true variable friction rappelling with exceptional holding strength. Its easy to control the amount of friction which helps maintain control using various rope diameters. Set the friction based on conditions.
Wild Country VC Pro. The aggressive V-grooves lock when you need to stop big falls or do long rappelling with a heavy pack. For slabs which require less friction, turn the VC Pro around to the smooth side. Comes in assorted colors.
Metolius BRD and Carabiner Package. This package deal gives you a BRD and Metolius locking carabiner. This is an excellent rappelling combo. The pear shape biner and straight gate make it easy to use. The wide surface lessens wear on the rappelling rope dissipates heat.
Metolius belay/rappel Glove. This Metolius Rappelling Glove is great for rappelling. This is the full-fingered version of the Metolius Climbing Glove. It is comfortable and snug fit with excellent dexterity. The outer skin is durable cowhide and the palm has split-cowhide reinforcements and triple stitching.
Omega Pacific Rappel Ring The Omega Pacific Rappel Ring packs an impressive 20kN rating to give you confidence on rappels, and it also reduces friction to make it easier to pull your rope. Eliminates the nylon-on-nylon burn that destroys anchors.
Reverso 3 Rappel Device This rappel device can handle a fat single or thin twin lines. The deep V notches provide positive arresting. The Reverso's quick-release loop is easy to release under high tension.
Petzl Cordex Belay/Rappel Glove Rappel gloves save your hands from rope burns. This is a double layer leather glove with a breathable stretch nylon back. They have an ergonomic cut for full range of motion while rappelling.
Mountain Hardwear Rappel T-Shirt - Short-Sleeve - Women's This shirt is excellent for strenuous hikes, rock climbing and perfect for rappelling. It is a wicking shirt and pulls moisture from your skin so you dry quickly.