Rappelling-Abseiling

Rappelling/Abseiling is accomplished by decending a vertical surface using a rope and device to provide friction to control the descent. Prior to rappelling, a climber must carefully and methodically inspect, take time, set up the rappelling knots, harness, rappelling rope and equipment. Establish protection as a back up before beginning the abseil, like setting up a belay or placing a prusik knot above the descender on the rappelling rope. For this reason it is very important to get qualified individualized instruction, before rappelling.

The Rope Descender creates friction on a rappelling rope to slow a climber down as he descends from an anchor. The rope descender is operated by the climber during the abseil. Decending devices, abseiling and rappelling equipment all work approximately the same. By controlling the tension on the rope as it flows through the equipment, friction is incrementally increased or decreased, thus changing the speed of the abseil.

Rappelling Gear consists of a rappelling and climbing ropes, locking carabiner, climbing harness, rope descender:

Rappelling Rope. Ropes with about 2% stretch perform best for rappelling. These ropes are multi-strand, low-stretching rope. This type of rope reduces the bouncing and adds control to the rappel. See Climbing Ropes.
Harness. A harness is used around the waist to secure the descender. There are many types and styles of harnesses to suite individual needs. See Climbing Harness.
Locking Carabiner. There are many types, styles. A popular rappelling carabiner is the asymmetrical D which provides plenty of room for even a thick 12mm rappelling rope. See Carabiners.
Rope Descender. This key piece of rappelling gear connects directly to the locking carabiner then to the harness. See Rappelling Gear and Equipment.

Safety Backups. There are several critical points that "abseilers" commonly back up. Each situation is different and needs to be evaluated with safety precautions taken based on the conditions. The following should not be considered a checklist.

The Rappelling Anchor. A separate independent anchor is established through the rappelling rope to another tie down point.
Tie in for rappelling harness and descender. An easy back up for rappelling can be done with a simple knot called the Prusik Knot. It limits the speed of descent. While rappelling, when the rope slips through the Prusik too fast it tightens and grips. By placing the Prusik above the rope descender, it will "catch" if the descent is out of control for any reason.
Back up Rappel. A top belay is the best safety backup for a rappel. It places a second person in the chain.
Length of Rappelling Rope. Ensure your rappelling rope extends all the way to the ground. A good safety back up is to tie a knot near the end of the rappelling rope.

Personal Protective Rappelling Equipment.

Rappelling Gloves. - protect your hands from the rock wall and rope during descent. The rappelling descender device can get very hot from friction. Gloves that allow dexterity, and protect from abrasion are worth the investment. See Rappelling Gloves
A Climbing Helmet. is an important item of rappelling equipment for personal protection. See Climbing Helmets
Boots. Depending on the type of rock and situation a set of boots may be good for protection. Not every situation will allow it. See Scarpa Climbing Boots, La Sportiva Climbing Boots

Safety devices and backups are not always possible. Sometimes the nature of the situation precludes using one or more backups. Whenever possible back up the abseil with independent protection.

See related items to rappelling-abseiling:

Belay Devices
Climbing Ropes
Quickdraws
Climbing Shoes
Climbing Helmets
Locking Carabiners
Snap Carabiners

Black Diamond Super 8. Built from 7075-T6 aluminum alloy. This rappelling equipment is strong and lightweight. Provides a smooth ride on any rope size/diameter. It is simple and easy to use, a classic descender.

Material: 7075-T6 Aluminum alloy
Auto Locking: No
Strength: 22kN
Recommended use: Rappel-Abseil
Weight: 3oz (87g)
Warranty: 1 year

Metolius BRD. The Metolius BRD device is easy to operate, is light weight and performs great as prime rappelling equipment. The side horn gives control for abseiling. It has fins to dissipate heat from the rope.

Auto locking: No
Strength: 22kN
Rappelling
Weight: 50g (1.8oz)
Warranty: 1 year

Petzl Pirana Descender. The Petzl Pirana Descender is excellent for controlling the rope and smoothly lowering. It excels with abseilling long heavy loads. The two spurs give breaking and allow you to vary friction dynamically. The spurs also are used to secure the descender freeing your hands to perform other tasks.

Auto Locking: No
Recommended Use: Rappelling with heavy loads
Weight: 3.2oz, 90g
Warranty: 1 Year

Petzl Stop Descender. The Petzl Stop Descender is self-locking specifically for use on single ropes. It is designed for long abseiling runs found on face climbs and caving descents. It works like a standard abseilling device. Squeeze the handle and it releases the cam, let go and the cam pinches the rope. It allows you to rest during a long descent and provides a safety backup. This is a very safe rapelling gear for long descents.

Auto Locking: Yes
Recommended Use: Long rappels on single ropes (9-12mm)
Weight: 326g, 11.5oz
Warranty: 1 Year

Black Diamond ATC-XP. This device provides excellent dual use belay and rappelling. It gives true variable friction rappelling with exceptional holding strength. Its easy to control the amount of friction which helps maintain control using various rope diameters. Set the device between regular friction mode and high friction mode depending on conditions and/or rappelling rope diameter. The extended central web keeps the ropes from kinking. This device won the Climbing Magazine Editor's Choice Award. Comes in assorted colors.

Auto Locking: No
Strength: 22kN
Recommended Use: Rappelling and dual use
Weight: 89g
Warranty: 1 year

Wild Country VC Pro. The aggressive V-grooves lock when you need to stop big falls or do long rappelling with a heavy pack. For slabs which require less friction, turn the VC Pro around to the smooth side. Comes in assorted colors.

Auto Locking: No
Recommended Use: for sport, trad and alpine climbing
Weight: 2.36oz
Warranty: 1 Year

Metolius BRD and Carabiner Package. This package deal gives you a BRD and Metolius locking carabiner. This is an excellent rappelling combo. The pear shape biner and straight gate make it easy to use. The wide surface lessens wear on the rappelling rope dissipates heat.

Recommended Use: Sport, trad or alpine climbing
Carabiner is 2.9oz / 82g.

Metolius belay/rappel Glove. The Metolius Rappelling Glove gives an advantage while abseiling for control of the rope. It's got a snug fit and exceptional dexterity. It's made of cowhide on the outer layer so it molds comfortably to your hand. The split-cowhide on the palm and triple stitching reinforce the strength and ensure it lasts. It has a webbing clip-in loop and hook and looped wrist closure. It is very comfortable and keeps your hands from burning while catching falls or fast lowering.

Metolius belay/rappel Glove. This Metolius Rappelling Glove is great for rappelling. This is the full-fingered version of the Metolius Climbing Glove. It is comfortable and snug fit with excellent dexterity. The outer skin is durable cowhide and the palm has split-cowhide reinforcements and triple stitching. This rappelling glove has a webbing clip-in loop and a hook and loop wrist closure. Maximize your rope control with a rapelling glove.

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