Prusik Knot

The Prusik knot is used to ascend a climbing rope using a smaller cord. The smaller cord is tied using the double fisherman's knot. The knot is tied by wrapping the looped cord around the climbing rope to create friction when weight is applied. When weight is released the Prusik loosens so it can be slid up the rope.

Metolius makes a convenient pre-tied Prusik Cord Set. It is tied in a loop with a double stopper knot on each end and has a shrink wrapped sheath over the knot. The cords are 47.5 inches and 28 inches in length. The Prusik is a handy knot to know how to tie and use in emergency situations and rescue operations. The Prusik knot is also useful to back up a rappel or belay. To ascend using a Prusik knot, two loops are used simultaneously. The long cord is used as a foot as a stirrup, and the shorter cord is tied into the harness. As a back up to a belay or rappel, one Prusik is tied or clipped directly into the harness.

Sequence to Tie the Prusik Knot:

1. Begin the Prusik knot by connecting the ends of a smaller diameter cord using the Fishermans Knot. Put the looped cord behind the loop it is being tied to. Adjust the cord so the knot does not go to the end.

2. Pass the end with the knot through the loop three times. At this point you can add more winds or turns around the climbing rope to create more friction as necessary.

3. Pass the end with the knot under the opposite side's loop. Do not let the winds overlap. Tighten the knot evenly.

4. Tighten and work the cord until it is cinched tight as shown. This is the completed Prusik Knot.