Carabiner

These devices are a gated connecting device used in rock climbing to attach a rope to a fixed anchor, tie in to protection points and the Belay Device. They are which are either non-locking or locking, and hinged with a spring to snap shut when released. They are lightweight, most commonly made with aluminum, and specifically designed to be operated with one hand. They are built to withstand a high shock force, and yet are light enough for climbers to carry between 6 to 30 without being hindered by the weight or bulk. The sizes range from big 3.7 ounce--to the mini 1.2 ounce aluminum carabiner. There are three basic types:

Snap Gate Aluminum Carabiner:

Oval. The semi-circle at each end distributes the load while allowing the rope or another carabiner to shift with movement. Typically these are the least expensive, lightest in weight to include the mini size. The tradeoff is they are not as strong and a little more difficult to clip than other styles, but are is ideal for clipping gear and rack items to the climbing harness.

"D" - Symmetrical. The "D-shape" causes the connecting runners or rope to shift toward the spine side (away from the gate). The spine side of the aluminum carabiner is stronger than the gate. This type will take more shock and weight force than the standard oval. They are easier to clip into runners and anchors points than the oval. This type works well for lead and top rope clipping.

"D" - Asymmetrical. The asymmetrical function provides space for a larger gate opening. This facilitates clipping and reduces weight a little. The asymmetrical has a larger gate opening than the symmetrical, but has less space inside the carabiner. It is also a good choice for lead and top rope clipping for experienced climbers.

Type of Gate. The "D" type has three basic gate options.

• Straight Gate. These are straight as the name implies. This is a little less expensive than the bent gate, more common and offers good functionality.
• Bent Gate. This type of gate has a slight concave curve. The purpose is to provide more room for the rope, runner or anchor point which allows faster clipping. Some climbers believe this type of gate is slightly more prone to unintentional unclipping. This could happen if another carabiner or protection point is twisted against the gate. For this reason, the bent gate type should be used with a runner or quickdraw. When used properly these provide added advantage of easy, smooth and quick clipping.
• Wire Gate. The thinner gate of the wire is an advantage in two ways: It provides more room, and is not as susceptible to "gate lash". Gate lash is the momentary opening of the gate caused from jarring or impact during a fall. This momentary opening weakens the carabiner at the instant of impact stress--when the full strength is needed most. When the gate is closed the gate contributes to the overall strength. When the gate is open, the spine carries the full strength. This is called open gate loading. Open gate loading is the leading cause of failure of aluminum carabiners. Since the wire gate has less momentum than the other gates it is less prone to pop open on impact.

Locking Carabiners

The locking mechanism creates a secure anchor which is much more difficult to accidentally open. This can happen during belaying and anchoring activities if the climbing rope is twisted or the carabiner is pressed against a rock or other gear. The locking mechanism provides added security. Typically, climbers need 2 or 3 locking carabiners and a belay device for anchoring gear and belays.

The locking carabiner has sleeve that slides or screws over the gate which locks it closed. It has an "auto locking" spring loaded screw sleeve, or a threaded screw gate. The spring sleeve rests in the closed position. The climber must twist the sleeve to open the gate. Twist lock sleeves are easy to use and can be operated with one hand. These are popular for indoor and sport climbing.

Screw gate type locks can also be operated with one hand. When locked, the sleeve screws over the latch preventing the gate from opening unless it is unscrewed. This type is popular with outdoor, canyon and big wall climbing. They considered by most climbers to be the most secure type of locking carabiner. These are slightly larger than the non-locking version which makes it applicable to use for connecting two ropes together, or connecting a rope to a runner. The locking type can be found in all of the same shapes as the snap type: Oval, D-symmetrical and A-symmetrical.

Belaying, rappelling and abseiling are the most common uses for locking carabiners. The largest of the locking types are the most popular as it provides more room for the rope and sling, or two ropes. Plus the additional space gives maneuvering room for fingers.

Black Diamond Positron The keylock nose of the Positron keeps it from catching on slings or other gear as you try to pull it out--makes it easier to clean a route!

Oval biner The oval shape is easy to hole. This is a versatile time-proven biner. It is ideal for creating a rack of gear for trad, sport or aid.

Black Diamond HotWire Offers superb versatility for all types of clipping. The wire gate helps prevent freezing in cold temperatures.

Mini Carabiner is smaller in size and is handy as key chains or similar uses. The minimum weight and internal volume make the mini excellent for rappel and belay.

Black Diamond VaporLock This award winning biner is ultra light 51 gram locking carabiner, one of the lightest on the market. It features snag free clipping.

CAMP USA biner This is a small locking carabiner weighing only 1.7oz. It has a easily usable Twist Lock gate that automatically locks when closed.

Petzl biner Range of sizes with the snag free Keylock gate. Round stock aluminum gives a smooth feed and works well for sport, trad, and big wall.

DMM biner are strong yet weigh less than the average `biner. It is only 1.8 ounces. It has a curved spine for exceptionally large gate opening.

Mammut Bionic Wire Safe Gate has a shape that causes the load to go to the spine in the strongest orientation. It is very light at only 1.2 ounces, or 34 grams.

List all Carabiner types.